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SirBalon's: Knowing Men's Fashion Trends


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I don't know how interested you guys will be with this although the Super Skinny Jeans thread managed to shed some debate with you boys so I've decided to start this which will go beyond just simply what trends are on their way. I'll also post on affordable ways to look ultra smart apart from the high end stuff, the men's side to good grooming and many more other things that are related to this.

Back in the old forum I started a thread dedicated to denim and how I saw that it was going to make a massive come back which it did.  The problem is that I didn't get to really embed myself in it plus I went about it the wrong way.

I personally love fashion and have always been enthused by how as with many things it also works in cycles.  Anyway... I'll be posting stuff on here and I hope it can generate some different types of debate ne something aside from football although I will start with a football/ish related article as my first post.

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The Best Dressed Football Managers

 

There’s a great anecdote in issue 17 of football quarterly The Blizzard about how Malcolm ‘Big Mal’ Allison, famed for his trademark fedora and fur coat, was upstaged – as Sporting Lisbon manager in the 1982 Portuguese Cup final – by his opposite number, Sporting Braga coach Quinito, who wore a tuxedo for the occasion.

Sadly, this sort of flex is the exception rather than the rule. Aside from a few ‘antihero pieces’ – Arsène Wenger’s bin bag coat, Tim Sherwood’s gilet, Tony Pulis’ magic hat – the touchline barely attracts any style commentary worth speaking about. There’s about as much panache on display as in the average Sam Allardyce side.

There are a few bosses, however, who make the beautiful game look good. To paraphrase Brian Clough, we wouldn’t say these are the best-dressed managers in the business – but they are in the top five.

 

PEP GUARDIOLA

Guardiola’s swag is often spoken of in terms more breathless than Brazilian Ronaldo on the first day of pre-season training. But like his management style, Pep’s wardrobe is not beyond reproach.

His suits can be on the shiny side, and he frequently teams them with a belt, which is a yellow card offence in our book. (It saws you in half visually: besides, if you need a belt, then your suit doesn’t fit properly.)

That said, the Spaniard is indisputably a top, top, top managerial dresser. His tonal tailoring game is generally strong, as is his knitwear (including the odd roll neck). He’s no slouch in casualwear, either, and he’s even pulled off short-sleeved shirts.

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The tactic: Keep it fairly tight

No, we’re not talking about his porous defences. The main reason that Guardiola is in another league to his rivals is because his clothes, particularly his suits, are close-fitting.

Occasionally a little too close: in the return leg of a Champions League quarter-final, he ripped his trousers on the touchline. There’s no movement, lads!

 

ROBERTO MANCINI

Ageing like a fine Barolo, oozing sprezzatura, Mancini is one of those well-dressed mature Italian men who would look as at home on The Sartorialist as in the dugout. You half-expect to see street style photographer Tommy Ton crouched pitchside trying to get a details shot.

When he was at Man City, Mancini became synonymous with his retro striped scarf – a free gift for season-ticket holders – wearing it with such trend-setting urbanity that the club made it available for general purchase by popular demand. But his key accessory only diverted attention from the rest of his outfits, which were typically immaculate.

As ‘il boss’ of Lazio, Mancini supposedly instructed the players to wear white shirts with their suits instead of blue, because he felt the former were more elegant. Bene.

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The tactic: Don't always buy the big names

Mancini is a fan of Giorgio Armani, rightly declaring his compatriot one of the best designers in history. But he gets his suits from his own “small” tailor in Naples.

As Leicester have demonstrated, you don’t need to splash out on stars to have a competitive dressing room.

 

ZINEDINE ZIDANE

The current holder of the bucking bronco that is the Real Madrid hot-saddle, Zizou is relatively new to management but no stranger to fashion. The talented former midfield maestro has previously modelled for Louis Vuitton, adidas Y-3 and Mango.

Zidane’s coaching CV is considerably less filled out, but he certainly looks the part. He’s also that rare guy who can wear sportswear beyond his twenties without resembling mutton dressed as ram.

Like all of the entrants on this list, it helps that Zidane – at 43, the youngest – gives the svelte impression that he could still join in with the five-a-side match at the end of training.

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The tactic: Play with your head

The most striking thing about Zidane is clear enough. (Just ask Marco Materazzi.) Yes, his baldness is an asset, but it’s one he assists by sticking to understated pieces and subdued colours. Whether in a suit or a tracksuit, his palette doesn’t distract from his pate.

Ultimately, your face should be noticed before your outfit. If your kit is so garish that it hogs the headlines, then you need to make a substitution.

 

LUIS ENRIQUE

With Guardiola as his near-predecessor at Barcelona, the Spaniard had big shoes to fill. Or in his case, trainers worn with a suit.

Forever the ultimate utility man to a generation of Champ Man players (SW/D/M/F Reuben Loftus-Cheek FTW), Enrique has proved just as versatile with his personal style. He got unfairly trolled by football fans and pundits when Barça played Arsenal at the Emirates for his Replay parka and old-school adidas kicks in matching military green. Which is a bit like a half-time team-talk from Karl Lagerfeld: not worth listening to.

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The tactic: Get your foot on the ball

Enrique gives a masterclass in getting the trainers with a suit thing right: keep the kicks classic and/or minimal, and the tailoring trim.

(On a separate but tangentially related note, can we take a moment to talk about the fact that Barcelona’s pre-game outfit is double denim [courtesy of their contract with Replay])?

 

QUÍQUE SÁNCHEZ FLORES

Like a Mediterranean version of Hugh Laurie in House, the ex-Watford gaffer seems as likely to impart tactical information to his skipper Troy Deeney as grumpily diagnose him with some obscure condition.

While not as much of a household name as the others on this list, Flores is seriously underrated. He rocked up for his introduction to the British press (now at Espanyol) in a slim suit, button-down shirt and canvas trainers. As former Gunners hitman Ian Wright (who is actually pretty sharp – maybe we should do best-dressed pundits) put it: “Cool persona, cool trainers… with José struggling, he could be the new sheriff in town.”

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The tactic: Adopt a less rigid formation

It’s not just diving and actually being good at football that continental fancy Dans have imported to these shores. They’ve also brought relaxed, soft-shouldered tailoring that looks and feels less stuffy, so much so that you can wear it with a T-shirt.

There’s a time and a place for highly constructed suits but, unless you’re at a wedding, it’s not the weekend. Take a leaf from Flores’ book with blazers that are more like cardigans – and in some cases, cardigans instead of blazers – and take a bow, son.

 

Source: Jamie Millar (fashion writer)

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  • The title was changed to SirBalon's Knowing Men's Fashion Trends

Guardiola looks like a fucking teenager wearing those  blue shoes with his outfit. Best dressed? Fuck no. Gotta have a giggle out the overcoat and hoodie combo as well. Quique and Mancini are the only ones that can seem to not mix up casual clothing with formal dress. Not some spastic mix of the two.

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The Signet Ring Is Officially Cool Again

 

Even in the ranks of men's jewellery, signet rings have always been a sign of wealth and status – a literal form of power dressing, spotted on the pinkies of anyone from kings to bankers, Popes to mobsters. So it’s perhaps a surprise that they are making comeback in fashion right now.

Then again, maybe not. Pinstripe suits are back. Gold watches, too. And like those baller statements, the signet ring is for everyone these days, whether you have a hedge fund and a family crest or not.

One reason is the second season of American Crime Story, which tells the story of Gianni Versace’s murder. Gianni wore a signet – it was one of his most iconic pieces, adorned with a snarling Medusa head. The brand that still bears his name re-released it recently, so you can get in on the knuckledusting action.

Whether you want to wear something as ostentatious as a gold ring featuring a snake-covered head from Greek mythology is another thing. Most men are reluctant to go for gold – or silver, or bronze, or any other precious metal for that matter. Classic male jewellery is usually a sober affair (unless your name happens to be DJ Khaled).

Signet rings, however, are much easier to wear than most pieces. You don’t have to be landed gentry to slip one on. Nor do you need access to an Italian fashion fortune. Our expert guide to signet rings proves that any man can pull it off.

Where Did They Actually Come From?

Once upon a time, people used to send letters. Actual handwritten, send-in-the-post letters. Before some genius came up with the idea of self-adhesive envelopes, such correspondence was usually sealed with wax. And for that, they needed a tool to do it with.

“Signet rings – jewellery that was created with a back to front crest – were used to stamp and sign documents, and they go as far back as the 4th century BC in Ancient Egypt,” says Josie Goodbody jewellery historian and author of The Diamond Connection.

“In fact, these seals were often regarded as more notable than a signature, and Edward II ordered that all legal docs in the 14th century were stamped with his signet ring. Some of the most significant letters in history have been ‘signed’ with one to prove authenticity.” Important, especially when your surname dictated whether you lived in the palace or the pig sheds.

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If your mum and dad were posh enough to flex a family crest – and with it, a signet ring – chances are you were in the money. It’s an assumption still widely made today. Yet despite the tradition of passing down a signet ring from generation to generation, the piece was democratised.

“In the 18th and 19th centuries, people had crests made when they came into money,” says Goodbody. “Having this emblazoned upon a signet ring was a sign of what they had achieved.” Signet rings were no longer limited to old-money types.

Since most of us now make our money on a computer rather than trading silks in Venice, anyone can wear a signet ring these days. “There’s little need for wax seals, and many people without a crest have settled for their initials in recent times, with the piece traditionally being worn on the ring finger.” If you do want to make like the lords of old though, Goodbody says that your pinky will serve just as well today as it did in the 18th century.

Or, you can channel the circus that is modern hip-hop. Since most rappers like to wear their pay packet on their wrists/fingers/necks, the signet ring has been co-opted by everyone from Rick Ross to Bruno Mars, and usually with a smattering of precious stones. No bad thing. The popularity amongst We The Best music and beyond is proof that the signet ring is no longer just for toffs.

So too is its presence in popular culture. He’s no member of Cyprus Hill, but Colin Firth wore his own in Tom Ford’s stylish sob-a-thon A Single Man; Henry Cavill also sported one as slick CIA agent Napoleon Solo in The Man from U.N.C.L.E. Back in the day, Frank Sinatra wore one, as did Elvis Presley. All wore more traditional takes on the signet ring, so it’s your decision who to take cue from.

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What To Look Out For

“When searching for the perfect signet ring, consider both the metal and the weight,” says Adelle Thompson, head of buying at British jewellers Beaverbrooks. “These often determine the final look, and should complement your own personal style.”

So, if you’re more the muted dresser, avoid knuckles full of mafia gold. Thompson also says that slimmer rings in plated gold or silver can be more minimal, and will therefore prove more a subtle add-on than a statement distraction. If in doubt, go small.

It makes sense to loosen the purse strings, too. “I’d always advise to go premium with signet rings,” says Oliver Proudlock, founder of menswear label Serge Denimes. “Solid silver and gold will last longer, as will a clean simple design.” That’s not to say you can’t spend less – just don’t be surprised when there’s a tell-tale green stain on your skin.

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How To Wear Yours

Signet rings are easy to wear alone. Slip one onto your little finger or ring finger and you’re good to go. Matching it to your other accessories is the difficult part. That’s not to say different pieces can’t work in tandem, but one slip-up can land you in Del Boy waters.

“You can choose to combine your signet ring with other rings, bracelets, cufflinks or watches, but always match metal and style,” says Thompson. “A signet ring on the right hand can complement a wedding band on the opposite, though again, these must reflect one another.”

There is one exception to this formula. Bi-metal watches – the ones that boast a combination of two metals on the case and strap – can be safely worn with either material. Just ensure the precious metal on your timepiece is exactly the same as your signet ring. Yellow gold is no friend of its rose gold sibling.

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Styles To Consider

Signet rings are in themselves a particular style of jewellery, of course, but that doesn’t mean they’re all the same. Pieces usually differ in size, the style of crest and if any precious stones are embedded. It just depends how bold you’re willing to go. If the answer is “not very”, that’s fine, too – not all signet rings even boast an engraving these days.

“There are no right or wrongs when it comes to signet rings,” says Thompson. “Smaller, simple designs are popular as they’re less noticeable, but added diamonds are both durable and stylish.” It’s up to you. Common choices often include a family crest, and many jewellery outfits charge a small fee to help you search for – or even develop – your own.

If bloodlines and ancestry isn’t quite your vibe, initials are a popular, solid choice, as are motifs, emblems or logos. It could be something to do with a big trip, a much-loved story, even your five-a-side team badge if you care that much.

It’s not hard to find somewhere that offers customisation. Hatton Garden jeweller Rebus is one brand to offer a bespoke service from start to finish, consulting with you every step of the way for the perfect signet ring. It’ll undoubtedly cost more. But you’ll own a signet ring tailored specifically to your tastes.

Classic Rounded Signet Rings

The short back and sides of signet rings. A round or oval ring is classic, easy-to-wear and suits almost every personal style in the book. It won’t set the world on fire, but that’s most certainly the point if you’re a muted dresser.

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Squared Signet Rings

Seems you can circle a square. Squared signet rings, in which there’s a rectangular front as opposed to a rounder one, is a subtle pivot from the norm, without radically changing what a signet ring is.

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Stoned Signet Rings

Precious stones needn’t mean rubies, emeralds or some other bling that could blind a small child if the light catches it. Moderately lustrous rocks – like polished agate – are a simpler alternative that’ll chime with your watch and your wider wardrobe.

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Heavily-Stoned Signet Rings

Most guys only opt for one precious stone. Diamonds are expensive, not to mention difficult to pull off. Should you boast the swagger of a Don Corleone in Vegas however, throw caution to the wind and enlist several. And probably contents insurance, too.

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Statement Signet Rings

If you see green at DJ Khaled’s stone-encrusted knuckles, then you sir, are ridiculous. But you have our utmost respect if you’re brave/rich enough to rock a bona fide finger cannon.

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13 minutes ago, SirBalon said:

Why do you say that? xD

It's serious mate... Haven't you ever read Esquire Magazine or magazines of the sort?

Nope, I'm from the school of wearing what's comfy.

I get people that follow fashion but I didn't know there was anyone on here who took it quite this far xD.

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2 minutes ago, RandoEFC said:

Nope, I'm from the school of wearing what's comfy.

I get people that follow fashion but I didn't know there was anyone on here who took it quite this far xD.

Oh, I do.  I love it to be honest due to having worked with many people that either are involved or have been involved in the industry. Everything about it I love to be honest but it doesn't have to be high end.  The curious thing is that almost everyone (a minuscule percentage don't) follows it because they end up in the trend without knowing how it's occurred or why.

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